EVOLUTION: 100 YEARS OF FASHION

Fashion reflects culture, identity, and change. From flapper dresses of the ‘20s to power suits of the ‘80s and Y2K trends of the 2000s, women’s style has continuously evolved.

In this must-read, Asmeeta explores the trends that defined each era. Discover a century of fashion history, and cringe hard as you get closer to now.

By Asmeeta G.

Since the beginning of time, clothing and fashion have become a way to express oneself, to show one's wealth, personality, or cultural and societal changes. As we look back 100 years, we can see how the change happened and created what we call modern-day fashion. This article is focused on what British women wore over 100 years.

The Rebellious Flappers of the '20s

The 1920s were all about the flapper style. This was a style that originated in the United States but made its way to the UK in the late 1920s after WW1. The change to flapper style happened as a change in society; women were now allowed to vote, and therefore, this change was a sign of newfound freedom and expression. The styles included short or knee-length skirts to show more leg and allow more movement, short bobs styled with curls to show rebellion against the previous beauty standard of long hair, and straight dresses with dropped waists allowing movement using beaded fabrics, silk, chiffon or sequins. Accessories such as long pearl necklaces, hats, or feathers were all the rage. Makeup was heavier with darker colours, and bold, dark lips were popular as smoking in young women had also risen, creating a more edgy look and drawing attention to the lips.

1930s Hollywood glamour

The 1930s was hugely influenced by Hollywood glamour; there was a rise in evening gowns and higher waistlines in the movies that resulted in women wanting a more elegant, mature, and sophisticated look. The 1930s were all for showing the small waist and curves in a woman’s body; flattering silhouettes with longer hemlines accentuated the elegant style they wanted to achieve. The styles include the famously French bias-cut dress designs, flowing skirts or gowns, and even trousers for women. More women were sporting tailored suits and trousers than in the '20s.

Popular accessories were fur coats and drapes across an evening dress, silk gloves, and a perfectly curled long bob.

1940s World War fashion

By the 1940s, women’s fashion had taken a turn. Since the Second World War had started, there was a shortage of fabrics to use, so the British government created a scheme to ration fabrics and clothing. The Utility Scheme, introduced in 1942, was a limited range of functional clothing items using fabrics such as tweed and wool. These fabrics were considered durable and practical. This was a big change from the glamourous silks and chiffons used in the 30s. Instead of skirts and dresses, trousers and suits were becoming more common, and the use of military-style clothing created a hybrid of practical mixed with feminine style. As most women also helped out in the war in one way or another, it was important for them to have enough movement and function but also to stay stylish.

The ‘New Look’ of the 1950s

To celebrate the freedom of the end of WW2, a leading fashion trend was Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’, which became widely spread around the UK. This ‘New Look’ consisted of a return to the hourglass figure and a perfect lady-like appearance, and this was the start of women regaining their femininity. Most notably, women decided to ditch the trousers and return to skirts and dresses. This was the peak height of classic, elegant, and glamorous looks. The most popular clothing pieces were voluminous skirts with prints such as polka dots or pastel florals, tea-length dresses that were more modest and pencil skirts made from wool or tweed. Women accessorised with gloves, jewellery, and high heels. Style icons like Audrey Hepburn and Marylin Monroe played a huge role in influencing women to dress elegantly, embracing luxury and femininity.

The Swinging '60s

The term ‘Mod Fashion’ circled around the UK throughout the 60s. ‘Mod’ or modern was an era of stylish young women and men inspired by the ‘Mod’ subculture. As the UK was still recovering from the war and economics were improving, there was more disposable income for young women and teens to use and create their own fashion sense. One iconic piece from the '60s would be the mini skirt. Mini skirts above the knee showed a big contrast from the '50s longer, elegant looks. The more playful and exciting look allowed the younger generations to express their rebellious nature, start showing their personalities, and enter an era of personal freedom. Other popular styles were shift or skater dresses, tailored suits, and capri pants that Audrey Hepburn popularised. Heavy-set colourful makeup with winged liner and short pixie cuts were famously also popular.

1970s Boho Chic

The '70s were all about bright colours and patterns. The term ‘boho’, which is short for bohemian, means someone interested in artistic things and lives a carefree life. Wearing long, flowy, floral-printed dresses or trousers and tie-dye-printed tops was a part of the boho style. Unisex clothing was also popular with women wearing boot-cut jeans and leather bomber jackets. Denim was becoming very popular with younger adults where practicality met style. Frilled tops and flared pants epitomise the era, accessorised by bold jewellery and dramatic eyeshadow.

The use of glitter and bold colours allowed individuals to express themselves, and hair was big- flower crowns, headbands, or a big, bouncy blowout was typical for both men and women.

1980s Power Dressing

The 1980s carried on from the '70s to include more women expressing themselves and using fashion as an outlet. More women had joined the workforce and, therefore, dressed to match the formality of the office. The early '80s was all about business wear, formal suit sets with matching trousers, midi skirts paired with a colourful blouse, and minimalist makeup. However, in the mid-80s, there seemed to be a shift. Throughout the mid-'80s, there was a reintroduction to colour and similar styles to the '70s. A rise in athletic wear using new synthetic fabrics made clothing such as cycling shorts, leg warmers, and oversized sweaters cheap to make and buy. The use of bright neon colours throughout the jewellery and makeup made a bold statement, and hair was also a part of this colourful phenomenon.

1990s Girl Power

A major influence in the 90s was the Spice Girls; they were every teen girl and young woman’s icons in the 90s. Their different personalities coming into a group made it easy for women to choose their style icons. This encouraged young women to take control of their fashion and allow self-expression and confidence. Mixing bold colours with funky patterns became a norm; also carrying on from the '80s, athletic wear was very popular. Clothing such as oversized hoodies, crop tops, and turtlenecks created a fun and fresh look, swaying away from the traditional ‘lady-like’ looks. Young women also loved wearing low-rise jeans or tracksuit bottoms (Adidas poppers were huge) or a mini dress/skirt; the Spice Girls popularised it for its fun and playful look. To accessorise, young teens loved a skinny choker and would wear it with any outfit. Big hoops, layering necklaces, bracelets, or scrunchies were a hit. There was also a new trend of having sleek hair, which contrasted with the '70s and '80s. It was also common to have layered hair with a blowout, specifically The Rachel, which was made famous by Jennifer Aniston's character from Friends. The bridge between the 90s and the 2000s was built with business wear for a night out, bold prints and patterns, tattoo chokers, Tommy tees, and anything Von Dutch.

2000s Y2K

The 2000s started with a rise in fast fashion; more and more fast fashion companies began to emerge, and the high streets were populated. The rise of fast fashion allowed young women to afford to buy whatever it took to look like their favourite star. There was also a rise in ‘vintage’ clothing as more women used thrift shops and second-hand clothing in their outfits. The 2000s style included either super low-rise baggy jeans or skin-tight capris and leggings, long flowy tops, basketball caps, and Ugg or Moon Boots; there was also a rise in wearing ballet flats with everything. If jeans were thought to be too plain, young women would bedazzle them with gems, jewels and embroidery; the sparklier, the better. As the outfits became less colourful, people found ways to keep them interesting. The use of a statement belt or a long-beaded necklace layered with other necklaces was popular. Boleros, crochet tops, chokers, and scarves were staples, and pairing them with baby tees or super-long flared jeans created a perfect look.

2010s Fast Fashion

With fast fashion continuing to grow since the 2000s, the high street was the best place to find your personal style. Since the rise of fast fashion, it has been easier for high-street companies to replicate designers, and this created a market for dupes, and everyone had access to these items. The rise of social media and influencers in the mid-late 2010s played a huge part in how young women found out about new styles and where to buy the dupes. Popular styles in the early '10s included skinny jeans, tiny bags, fur coats, and an indie grungy look that screamed, 'I've not been to bed yet,' but in the late '10s, we saw a switch to classier mum jeans, wide-leg joggers, dad trainers, and an explosion of athleisure.

2020s Lockdown Fashion

As 2020 was hit by a global pandemic that forced everyone to stay home, fashion wasn’t the first priority; this meant that fashion took a turn and ended up being a convenience instead of self-expression. Everyday clothing included sweatpants, hoodies, and pyjamas. Matching sets and neutral clothing were a common choice. Once the pandemic lifted, there was a rise in the trend of ‘quiet luxury’, a theme of wearing simple and minimalistic outfits such as black trousers with a white blouse or full cream comfy co-ords. Still, these items would need to be from high-end designers. This term became popular on TikTok, and clothing such as cable knit cardigans and ballet flats became popular once more. There was also a rise in inclusive unisex clothing to support the LGBTQ+ community. This was when women did not dress according to society's norms; oversized clothing, unisex, and more masculine styles came into the market.

Now in the present day, fashion has become a diverse, inclusive and expressive part of someone’s identity. There are no rules in fashion and therefore the fashion of today is everchanging and will forever continue to be an outlet of creativity for everyone.

By Asmeeta G